Pitchfork incubator kitchen1/21/2024 If you are doing seasonally-focused apparel, the long term durability of your garments may not be an issue. Separating the third seam Pouch completely taken apart Distortion of the zipper teethWe can now see the distortion of the zipper which caused it to fail. Only a single line of stitching attachs them to the tape. The tabs are unlined, but like the body pieces they have been folded over and glued to the zipper tape before stitching. Separating the second seam Second seam removedThe first seams to be sewn, and the last ones we rip out, attach the zipper tape to leather tabs that make up the rest of the open side of the pouch. I will leave the leather and the lining attached along this edge. We also find that the leather exterior was cut longer than the lining, and the excess has been glued to the top edge of the lining as a clean finish hem. These seams were glued before stitching, but fortunately the glue was something like rubber cement and easily peels away without damaging the leather. They were sewn on a double-needle machine, so there are actually four lines of stitching to remove to separate the body pieces from the zipper. Looking for the next seamClose examination of the remaining seams reveals that the body halves were sewn to the zipper as the second-to-last operation, so those will be the second seams we rip out. It is now totally worn out, but it looks like a thin layer of open cell foam. Second, there was an additional layer of padding between the leather exterior and the lining. The lining side adjacent to the leather is unstained, so nothing is getting through. Padding and latex layers lining the leather exterior First, the latex lining does an excellent job of keeping the staining and odor from exiting the pouch. As it turned out, the leather right sides and latex linings were only sticking to themselves with natural adhesion, and they could be easily pulled apart. I was afraid they had been glued with something I would not be able to remove. First seam removedAfter removing the stitching and old plastic binding, the edges of the body were still stuck together. It is also dried out and cracked, and will have to be replaced. This plastic is not a woven material it’s embossed with some sort of texture, but it’s a solid material. The final seam, and the first one we will rip out, binds the two body halves together with a plastic strip. A nasty nicotine color after years of use, this rubber lining keeps the pipe tobacco from drying out, smelling up the place, and staining the leather exterior. Pouch turned inside outNot being a smoker, my first surprise was that the pouch is lined in latex rubber. As it turns out, the zipper was the very first thing sewn, so we have to take the pouch completely apart to replace the zipper. Most or all of the seams are sewn with right sides together, then the whole thing is turned right side out at the end like a collar or pocket flap. Items like this zippered pouch are constructed inside-out. In a later blog entry, I will put the pouch back together, showing some tools and techniques for sewing difficult materials. In this entry, I will take the pouch apart, finding some surprises even in a simple sewn product like this one, and show some variations on this pattern. Tobacco pouch with a dead zipperI accepted the challenge, mostly to generate a blog entry or two. I am doing a building project, and as I was sitting at my kitchen table with the construction manager, he asked me if I could replace the zipper on a tobacco pouch.
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